Category: our fair trade

{This is a guest post written by one of our summer interns, Adeline Nieto.}

“How many?”

“7.”

I slid the heavy curtain to the right and hung all seven pieces on the hook. I turned shirts and skirts inside out to find the labels. I double checked the size, looked to see if I was supporting American-made products, and I ruled out the items with difficult washing instructions.

Hardly ever did I reject clothes based on the fabric… Or the company’s commitment to fair working conditions… Or its relationship to the environment.

I seemed to be pickier in supermarkets than in malls.

“Is this broccoli organic? Who picked these blueberries? Where was this coffee grown?”

I hadn’t translated these questions to clothing because it was easier to turn a blind eye. When I walked into a department store I wasn’t greeted with an organic clothing rack and fair trade labels. In reality, I wasn’t motivated to seek out my other options.

But when I really started to think about it, I wondered, “How could I be so careful about what I put in my body, yet so carefree about what I put on my body? How could I be a human rights activist, yet buy inexpensive clothing when I knew why it was priced that way?”

To turn my thinking around, and in hopes of ridding old habits, I set out to research the facts.

I began looking at the information that’s stated on the clothing tag.

Companies love to highlight the “benefits,” such as: resistance to wrinkles, static, stains, flames, and moths.

They also love to list their main ingredients: cotton, spandex, rayon, polyester, wool.

Yet judging from their labels, they choose not to disclose the chemicals used to create these fabrics.

Polyester is a plastic, made from oil. Most polyesters used in apparel are non-biodegradable.

Fabrics made through seemingly eco-friendly processes, like rayon (made from wood pulp) and even bamboo, are treated with severe chemicals in the fabric processing that usually end up flowing into public waterways.

Conventional cotton accounts for a whopping 25 percent of the world’s pesticide use, and almost half of these pesticides are suspected or already known-to-be carcinogens.

Before I started this internship, I had never thought about these things. I didn’t realize that the clothing business is a chemical business. I didn’t understand why organic inedible ingredients were also important. The “old me” would have walked out of that dressing room with a handful of items and marched straight to the register.

But I’m learning. There aren’t a lot of ideal solutions to the problem (yet), but I’m discovering the first step is having a bit more thought before I enter the dressing room. {r}

Photos by Adeline Nieto

Apparently, everyone thinks our economy should get bigger. We know, because enough people have asked us, “How are you going to build a business that’s not based on selling more and more styles?”

I just finished reading a book that every American should read – Deep Economy, by Bill McKibben. He essentially asks:

Should we want economic growth at the expense of our ecology, our happiness, and our sense of community?

McKibben writes:

“Fast, cheap, and easy is what we have at the moment…The word we use to sum up these virtues is “efficiency,” and on its altar we have sacrificed a good deal: our small farms were inefficient compared with factory farms, our local retailers were inefficient compared with Walmart; having free time is inefficient compared with working more hours. Relationships are inefficient compared with things.

“And, in a certain, limited sense, each of these ideas is correct. If you leave certain factors (pollution, say, and unhappiness) out of account, we’ve built a society more efficient than any the world has ever seen.”

McKibben talks about one of the biggest issues that we face as Americans:

Hyper-individualism.

I’ll drive my car to work instead of biking or taking the bus, because it’s more convenient.

I’ll eat as many steaks as I want to, because they taste good.

I’ll use my dryer instead of a clothesline, because it’s faster.

I’ll buy new clothes every season, because they’ll make me look good.

All day, every day, we think about ourselves. But what if we took each of these choices, and started thinking about what’s best for everyone? Not just for me, but for the whole world?

In a few words, what if we put community first? What if we were slightly inconvenienced for the greater good? Appreciated hanging clothes out on the line on a summer day? Cooked our own inefficient food? Took the long bike ride to work instead of driving?

Life would be different. Life would be slower. Life might be richer, happier, and less stressful. Less efficient.

So when people ask us about our nonsensical business model, we just smile, and tell them that success isn’t just about money, or growth, or efficiency.

Success is about finding a way to support “I” without sacrificing “we.” {r}

You all know we’re not big shoppers. But last year, a friend of a friend introduced us to Maria Olson, founder and CEO of LivLuna.com, and we instantly fell in love with her idea. She is building a site for “fun, fearless females” that is centered around eco-products and lifestyles, and she recently asked us to review some of the products in her new (and growing) store.

It was tough to narrow down the options, but we made sustainability a top priority while factoring in style, functionality and value. And, as advocates of multi-season versatility, we picked pieces that work beyond the summer season.

The good news for all of you is that LivLuna is offering our readers 35 percent off on all items. Just use the promo code “ALLOFUS” at checkout. Wishing everyone a happy summer with conscious consuming : )

Every girl’s must-have I’m a pencil skirt enthusiast. I love the versatility of being able to wear it casually with flats or dress it up with heels, so the ecoSkin Slim Knit Pencil Skirt is a top pick for me. It’s cut right above the knee with knitted detailing, and awesomely enough, is 100 percent organic cotton.

The essential accessory The Waves Wide Belt from MATT & NAT is made out of recycled plastic bottles and vegan materials, cutting back on the use of leather.

The summer staple The Omgirl Ashtanga tank top is a staple for any season. It’s 100 percent organic cotton and sewn in the USA — doesn’t get much better than that.

The multi-season savior If only I didn’t live in Austin with 100 degree weather for the next five months, my pick would be the ALO Plush Hoodie. It’s made out of high-quality organic cotton and french terry that makes it durable enough to last all year round, season after season.

A big thanks to Maria for offering our readers such a great discount. There’s nothing we love more than connecting with those who have the same ideals for the future of fashion. We look forward to debuting {r}evolution apparel on LivLuna Shop! {r}

We can all learn a lot from Rebecca Burgess. She’s the face of The Fibershed Project, with a mission to wear clothes sourced completely from a 150-mile radius of her home for one year. Her blog follows big milestones, like her first pair of socks and the discovery of new dyes and materials. Through photos and writing, she has captured the challenges and rewards of sourcing her own closet.

Following Rebecca’s story has forced us to think more about how clothes are made and how we can improve the process. As she wraps up her year of wearing local, we had the chance to ask Rebecca a few questions about Fibershed, sustainability, and the future of fashion.

{r} For most, this sounds like a monumental task. How did it all start? And what pieces came first?

It began conceptually. I’m fascinated by the intersection of human culture and nature — at their nexus our material world is born. Textiles are at the heart of our material culture, (try leaving the house without them, and you soon realize how essential they are). The manner in which textiles are created, and how they are valued is a lens into the health and well-being of any culture. Similarly, the foods we eat, and the homes we create have a lot to say about our collective health, and ability as a culture to sustain.

Our society’s current material culture is completely dependent upon oil. And not just the oil that runs through our gas tanks. The material that creates our carpets, our fleece coats, our yoga pants, and our colors — all from petrochemicals. Who isn’t tired of our petroleum culture?! I mean come on, wouldn’t we all like to be done with the wars, and oil spills?

On an artistic level the inspiration began with the fact that I am continually interested in how our local fiber resources can be honed and perfected into the best possible garments. To do this I am using myself, and my wardrobe as the guinea pig for this experiment. Ancient cultures had incredible technologies of how to blend, spin, breed animals, and dye fiber with botanic resources. Our current fast-paced culture has skipped over the nuances and wisdom that come from hunkering down and making the best with what you have.

However, this is not to say that we are looking to re-create the past with this experiment. Our Fibershed is inspired not only by the ancients, but by the the best of modern culture as well. There are many attributes to the technology of today. We are looking at building a solar powered mill, and are utilizing direct marketing through social media, and using the internet for clues in our research and design process that allows us the ability to take the best of global fiber and sustainability practices.

A few of the Fibershed Creations

{r} Many people (ourselves included), have very little concept of just how much energy goes into the making of our clothing. How did this project put that into perspective for you?

It’s been a funny, ongoing observation I’ve had about time and energy, and I’ve learned to completely love the slowness. The story of a garment goes a bit like this (in many cases): I go to farms, I skirt wool, I take it to the mill (that only processes animal fibers). The mill cleans it, cards it, and spins it. Already, we’re talking a few months. And then, it goes to the dye house (that’s me), that can take two to three weeks, and then it goes into the hands of knitters, seamstresses, and or weavers.

Designs and Raw Materials: Naturally-colored Cotton

This is the interesting part for me to observe — almost every time (with the exception of a maybe one or two garments), the raw materials are in the hands of the knitter, or the fabric is in the hands of the seamstress, the process begins to really speak to modern life, and reflects some of the paradox’s that we as humans face. The slowness of making these garments exists in such contrast to the speed of everything else around us. This contrast creates a range of human emotion in the artisans, including myself. There is often guilt, or worry that its not getting done. There are apologies for not being fast enough. The process of making the garments puts our bodies and minds temporarily back in time — when things moved more slowly, and it illuminates a different way of life all together. The world around us is not moving like this, there is little consistent focus being given to any one thing, and thus energy and attention move quickly.

While it is true, that these clothes take much time and energy, I also think that our perception of time and energy is skewed by the current historical moment of ‘fast and faster.’

A Dyeing Project with the Fibershed Crew

{r} Without challenge, there would be no reward. What have been the biggest challenges and rewards over the past year?

The biggest rewards by far have been in the relationship building that has occurred between myself and the ranching and farming, as well as the design community. The exploration of my region has been such a joy and pleasure. My innate understanding of where I live has been forever enhanced and defined by this project.

The challenges have to do with clothing myself, while it has happened beautifully, and almost unbelievably, there have still been challenges. My clothes (15 garments), get worn a lot. And, I’m part of the research, so when the socks wear out, and when the eco-friendly soap somehow bleaches the cotton, or the sweater doesn’t stop pilling… those are challenges. We are wearing textiles, they say, for 99 percent of our lives. This means I’ve been wearing Fibershed 99 percent of my life this year — and its showing me everything I need to know about how to sustainably clothe myself with local materials.

I have so much physical knowledge now about what fibers are best suited for what, and what we could do to improve the quality of our processes. To me, there is no better way of testing the viability of any idea other than to go and explore it on the ground in a very serious and methodical way. So while the limitation has been a challenge, I couldn’t have known the workability or the potentiality of bioregional clothing without it.

The Creation of the "Golden Pants"

We have a few more questions for Rebecca, and more photos from her blog, that we’ll be posting tomorrow. In the meantime, this is where you can find all things Fibershed: Web and Twitter.

This week we connected with Kristy Powell of One Dress Protest, a project documenting one girl, wearing one dress, for one year. A big thanks to her for her infinite wisdom and inspiration!

{r} Tell us about One Dress Protest. How did you come up with this idea?

One Dress Protest is me, Kristy Powell, wearing one dress for a year in order to protest the ideas and motivation behind how and why I wear my clothes. In this way, I will be “fasting from fashion.”

The “protest” idea stems from years of feeling as though I needed to look a certain way in order to exude a certain identity. I had known I wanted to step out of the mold and figure out ways to express myself without using clothes as a medium, so I decided that an open and public protest would not only be the best way for me to do that, but also be a way to bring others into my experience and get them asking themselves similar questions.

{r} What do you want other people to get out of your message and your protest?

I want others to begin asking the “hard” questions of their consumptive behaviors: Why am I buying this? Do I know where it came from? Do I know who made it? What does this particular item say about me as a person? Is what it says the reason I’m buying it in the first place? What impact did this garment have on the environment when it was being made?

Ultimately, though, I want others to allow themselves the opportunity to reclaim themselves as a person in the world of fashion rather than simply inhabiting the role of consumer. If this happens, I think our roles as people in the fashion world can begin to fundamentally change in ways that we can start living sustainably, equitably and prosperously on the land itself.

{r} What advice do you have for people who want to change the way they consume, but aren’t ready to commit to wearing one dress for a year?

I think committing ourselves to awareness and intentionality is half the battle, so it’s the best advice I can give for anyone looking for a deeper sort of engagement with the role their clothes play in their lives. Simply asking the questions of how we consume, how advertising impacts us, how much we expose ourselves to it, is the best place to begin.

I don’t think others should feel as though they need to do something as drastic as wearing the same article of clothing every day. There are a number of steps a person can take towards changing the way they consume, though, and the first one is to explore and appreciate what’s already in your closet.

I’d also advise making a commitment not to consume for a certain amount of time, in order to really assess how much clothing you need in your life. I actually didn’t realize it was realistic to live with as little clothing as I am now. Once you get a good idea of what you need, then you can make better distinctions for what your “want” and “need” purchases are.

We can all become far more intentional consumers. Being intentional is key to moving forward in a sustainable way. Of course, being intentional doesn’t just apply to consumers, but also retailers and distributors, which is why it’s so important to have businesses like {r}evolution apparel on the scene.

It’s going to take a truly global effort to turn the clothing industry into a more efficient and sustainable model, and that includes everyone involved.

{r} What do you think it will take to change society’s addiction to shopping? In your opinion, why is this change necessary?

We cannot keep consuming fashion items the way we are: it’s simply not environmentally sustainable.

Shopping is a lot of things to a lot of people: therapy, a hobby, a sport, reason to travel, a time to be with friends, it’s a way to be alone. But it’s also, absolutely, an addiction.

The way we can change our addiction to shopping is in the way that we break any other harmful addiction: by doing it together. Each one of us can participate in the larger conversation about how and why things have gone terribly wrong in the ways we have learned to consume. By joining that conversation, we can all contribute our unique voices to start moving the fashion industry to a more sustainable place.

{r} There are those who argue that if this “un-consumption” mentality becomes the majority, then our entire economy will crash. They argue that consumerism is necessary in order for our country to thrive. What do you have to say to those who ridicule this movement for economical reasons?

This is an appropriate critique, yet it quite literally begins to fray at the seams when you realize it’s built on a faulty foundation. That faulty foundation is the assumption that the earth will continue to let us use its finite resources without accounting for the environmental impact of our consumptive lifestyles. While clothing may be necessary for our country’s economy to thrive, if we ruin the environment, not only will our economy cease to be, but we will cease to be.

Think of a functioning alcoholic. Though a functioning alcoholic is destroying his body with his substance abuse, he still functions out in the world and seems to flourish in his career and relationships — at least for a time.

Our economy is a functioning alcoholic. Detoxing is not going to be fun. Part of the problem right now is figuring out a way to to purge our economic systems from the various consumptive behaviors that are poisoning our environment. We must figure out how to curb our addictions, rather than simply functioning in the short term. Just like an alcoholic’s body begins to rot from the inside, the earth is giving us plenty of signs that we can’t continue on this path. {r}

To follow more of Kristy’s journey of unconsumption and minimalism, go to www.onedressprotest.com and follow her on Twitter @OneDressProtest. Thanks again to Kristy for sharing her experience with us! {r}