travel – the {r}evolution apparel blog

Getting Warmer: Introducing Our Newest Lead

In last week’s post, we hinted at potentially having a production method for {r}evolution apparel. Knock on wood — we’re finally feeling like there might be light at the end of the tunnel.

A couple months ago, a group of cotton farmers in Texas gave us a list of people to contact for help. After dozens of e-mails to manufacturers all over the country, we finally got a response from one of the few custom knitters left in America.

The company is based out of Asheville, North Carolina, and prides itself on its environmental accountability and fair trade certifications.

Our inquiry e-mail started in their spam folder, but things have only gone up from there. For the past few weeks, we have been sending designs and fabric swatches back and forth, and the company has been incredibly encouraging about the task we’re trying to accomplish.

A big difference from the manufacturers who told us they wouldn’t “commit to the complexity of the project.”

The Asheville company knits several fabrics that we may be able to use: U.S. grown organic cotton, fairly-traded organic cotton from Turkey, a blend of recycled cotton and recycled polyester, and finally, a special type of fabric made completely from recycled PET plastic. We love the idea of mixing organic and recycled fabrics from a number of environmentally-kind sources.

With the laundry list of requirements we need to do this right, our lead is ticking off the boxes one by one:

Organically-grown and organically-manufactured cotton.
Fair trade options.
Capabilities to construct reversible and convertible garments.
Low-impact dyes, with enough color options to create the look we’re going for.
Minimum orders that we can afford.
Knitted and sewn in the USA.
Company ethics that we can stand behind.

I received the sample swatches of the 100 percent organic cotton in several different weights to compare the durability and texture of the fabric. It feels great to the touch and feels even better knowing the farmers and workers were paid fairly and treated well in the process.

We still have issues to hash out and more research to do, but things are looking good.

Really good. {r}

No Cameras, No Passports, No Problems: Safety in Nicaragua

When’s the last time you thought about your safety before walking outside?

Most of us wouldn’t think twice. Generally, we feel safe and secure and know that we’ll probably leave our comfortable homes and return to them without any problems.

How lucky are we?

I’ve traveled to cities that have been deemed ‘unsafe,’ usually due to media sensationalization or freak stories that happen to 1 percent of the population. I’ve learned not to believe what Lonely Planet tells you, because in places like Cambodia and South Africa, I’ve never felt safer.

Yet in all those times, I’ve never had locals tell me not to walk around or leave the confines of the hostel. I’ve never had to take a 30 second taxi ride just so my groceries wouldn’t get stolen. I’ve never seen security guards holding machine guns outside every store on the block.

And then I came to Managua.

Nicaragua is the safest country in Central America. There may be people who read this, having been here, and think I’m way out of line. We’ve been here for two weeks and have only had one semi-dangerous experience, so maybe I am.

But being in Managua has made me think about the safety and comfort we take for granted at home.

With travel comes the expectation that you will be treated like a “foreigner.” Stares? Sure. People are curious about those who look different from them. The frustration of paying too much “gringo tax?” This isn’t our first rodeo; we expected that too. A few rude comments here and there? Fine, we understand machismo is a part of the culture.

But our experience here has been sadly unnerving. We follow the rules the locals have suggested — we only walk around in a five-block radius.

Yet during the majority of the five minute walk to the grocery store, we get hissed at, whistled at, and name-called. We dress conservatively, keep our heads down, and don’t speak English.

It’s an eye-opener. How lucky I am.

I’ll eventually go home to the comforts of my own home, and I’ll feel, well, safe. I’m not one of the millions of people all over the world who constantly live with the fear of theft, assault, or worse.

While this hasn’t been one of the more enjoyable cities I’ve come to know, that’s part of travel, too: learning about the lives of others, and in turn, learning about your own. {r}

Video: “Real World Antigua”

Today we’re introducing our Guatemalan family and giving you an inside peek into our daily life here. Every single day consists of eating, sleeping, Spanish tutoring, and business planning. So, here’s the proof: it’s not all fun and games…

(Well, it kind of is.) {r}

Where Are You Wearing?

I recently read a book that had my mind spinning about the clothing industry. For better or for worse, it left me thinking, “I’m never shopping again.”

I knew that wasn’t a solution, but I also knew that the way I ‘buy’ is forever changed.

The book is called ‘Where Am I Wearing‘ by Kelsey Timmerman and it chronicles his multi-country quest to visit the sweatshops (he prefers using the term ‘garment factories’) where his four favorite pieces of clothing were made. He talks to developing-world laborers in Bangladesh, Cambodia and China about their lives as industry workers — the few benefits and the many struggles.

In the last chapter, he raises an important question about how we consume and the different types of consumers who feed the industry.

So, what kind of consumer are you?

a.) I’m a bargain hunter. I don’t care where or who made my clothes just as long as I don’t break the bank.

b.) I would like to support an ethical manufacturing system by buying fair trade clothes, but I can’t afford to.

c.) I am a red, white and blue consumer. After watching Americans lose jobs to outsourcing, I only support USA-made products.

d.) I am a conscientious consumer. I only buy products made by transparent companies that I know treat their workers fairly.

e.) I am a low-impact consumer. I want to remove myself from the process entirely, so I only shop consignment or sew my own clothes.

f.) I am an apathetic consumer. I know the people who make my clothes lead difficult lives and may be treated unfairly, but I don’t pay much attention.

We don’t vote for candidates we know nothing about. We don’t invite people into our homes if we don’t know who they are. So why do we put clothes on our backs when we know they are corrupt, tainted or unethical?

It comes down to forcing responsibility and accountability on global companies — the companies we buy from every day. We vote with our dollars, and it’s our job as buyers to do the research, ask the questions, and be engaged. Unfortunately, we can’t count on anyone else to do it for us.

Would you pay five more dollars for clothes you know are made by people who are justly treated and receive a wage that could help lift them out of poverty?

According to Kelsey’s book, 61 percent of people answered yes, based on a post-recession poll from a 2004 study at the University of Maryland.

Would you be one of them? {r}

For more on Kelsey and his book, visit his blog at www.whereamiwearing.com or follow him on Twitter at @KelseyTimmerman.

Video: Two Gringos in Guatemala

I met Kristin in the small, colonial town of Antigua, Guatemala on Tuesday and ever since, the ball has been rolling. We wake up around 7am every day to tackle our business plan, determining our target market and marketing strategy. In the afternoons, we take individual Spanish classes with Jose and Karla, a couple who runs Latinoamerica Spanish Academy from their home.

On Saturday, we took the morning to visit the central market and browse through some of the local apparel, hoping to find inspiration for our own clothing line. {We have decided what we want to produce, but we haven’t quite figured out how. We’ll be sharing our ideas and plans this week — our big reveal!}

This is a short video of us in the markets of Antigua. {r}

Video: The Adventure Begins…

I check into Logan Airport today, connect in Miami, and arrive in Guatemala City by the afternoon (pending how Tropical Storm Richard behaves). In this video post, I talk about our plan for the next few weeks and reveal our new travel itinerary. Let the games begin… {r}

A Perfect World {For All of Us}

{If you’re new here, welcome! This is the home of Shannon and Kristin, two girls in the process of starting an import business out of Central America with a focus on fashion. One of the guiding principles in our business plan is fair trade. Starting today, we’ll be adding a new category to this blog, dedicated to discovering what fair trade is all about.}

The Plan

Thus far, we’ve been a bit vague about our actual business plan. That’s because we don’t have it all figured out yet — what type of products we’re going to import, or what country we’ll be importing from. Right now, we’re most excited about producing a small line of fair trade clothing in Central America.

Our top priority is to research the plausibility of production. First, we’re looking at cooperatives — 100 percent worker-owned factories. We have to locate the co-ops, and then contact or visit them to find out if their capabilities and our requirements are a match.

For now, we’re looking for six specific qualities in the cooperative we’ll choose to work with:

Experience producing similar styles of clothing
Knowledge of customs and exporting
Capacity for growth
Financial feasibility
Sustainability
Adherence to fair trade labor standards

Our naivety led us to believe this would be, well, easy enough. There are lots of cooperatives in Guatemala, manufacturing everything from traditional huiptiles (traditional women’s clothing) to recycled glass trinkets. But I have yet to locate a co-op with all the qualities we need to move forward — either they don’t have experience with this type of product, they don’t have the capacity, or they don’t have references to attest to deliverability and reliability.

In a perfect world, we would take several months or years to work with a few cooperatives and create a system of fair trade production. We would arrange training for the women. We would set up Kiva loans for equipment. We would help with the exporting, paperwork and logistics. They would have a first customer, a reference and experience. We would have a product.

But the world isn’t perfect. We don’t have the resources, language skills, time, or knowledge to help build an entire cooperative infrastructure from the ground up.

The Opportunity

We’re probably not the only company to pass up Guatemalan-made goods because of the difficulty in coordinating the logistics. In a country full of talented artisans and willing workers, this is an unfortunate reality.

And it’s not just Guatemala. My guess is that most developing countries, with skilled women and numerous co-ops, are being overlooked as a viable fair trade manufacturing source because of infrastructure.

As fair trade becomes more popular, other small companies like ours will start to look for alternatives to exploitative factory labor. But where will they find it? Companies in similar circumstances don’t have the knowledge or resources to put together a fair trade supply chain in a foreign country.

This is where opportunity knocks.

When it comes to textile manufacturing, there’s always a middle-man: a person who coordinates the purchase of the textiles, the cutting, the dyeing, the sewing. They take their cut, pay their workers, and ship a finished product. The middle-man is the link between the world and the manufacturing process.

So why aren’t their “coordinators” in the fair trade clothing sector? Not only would this person or company profit, but they would also contribute to increased trade.

It’s a complex issue, but I can’t stop asking myself…

If the process were made easy, how much business would shift from traditional, exploitive manufacturing to fair and ethical trade?

And what if other developing countries were able to create a network of fair trade businesses? This could revolutionize the garment industry.

Imagine how much more money these countries could earn through trade, instead of aid. {r}

Life in Photos: Atitlan to Flores

With only one week until Shannon arrives, I’ve been busy seeing the sights of “Guatever,” and doing as much research on cooperatives and fabrics as I can.

After one month in Guatemala, I can say a few things with certainty: The people here are amazing, and the country is beautiful.

On Sunday, I’ll be writing about my take on the infrastructure of Guatemalan cooperatives. As always, I have an idea for a “perfect world” situation between small-time companies like ours, and cooperatives in developing countries.

For today, though, here are a few more photos from my time in Lake Atitlan and Flores, two very different parts of the country. Like I said, it’s an absolutely beautiful place. {r}

Goodbye Antigua, Hello Travel

As I wrapped up my first two weeks in Guatemala, I realized it was time to say goodbye to my host family and start applying my new-found Spanish skills in “real life.” (i.e. it’s time to travel!)

Antigua is a beautiful city, but after a few weeks, the cobblestone streets and continual “bombs” (deafening fireworks shot off several times per day to signify fiestas) began to wear on me. I’ll return in a few weeks when Shannon joins me, to see my Guatemalan family and take more classes.

Here are some photos from my homestay, and the sights and sounds around Antigua. I’ll be posting photos of my new digs at Lake Atitlan soon!

My room in Antigua; part of a larger house with four other families and a central “plaza.” Everyone knows everyone else’s business! Beibe, my family’s 5-year-old daughter, wearing my sunglasses. This is after she found my makeup bag. Also pictured: some of the pounds of paper I used while studying, and the gorgeous (but not soundproof) window in my room.

I hiked Pacaya Volcano, a short day-trip from Antigua just before I left. This is the view on the way up. Guatemala is stunning, and incredibly green after a long rainy season.

On the way up Pacaya Volcano (an active one!) with a view of pueblos and mountains below.

An other-worldly scene. While we didn’t see any lava flows, there were holes in the volcano hot enough to roast marshmallows. And like everywhere in Guatemala, there were some dogs closeby to fight for leftovers.

More views of the moonscape.

Getting out of Antigua-proper for a day was a much-needed respite; now, I’m looking forward to my time at Lake Atitlan, making a final map of the cooperatives Shannon and I will visit in November and putting together “to-do” lists for when we return to the States. But with a view like this, it’s hard to complain about work:

Mis{adventures} in Guatemala: Arrest, FBI, and the Fugitive Blogger

I have two goals before Shannon arrives in Guatemala in late October: learn Spanish, and get to know the “business in Guatemala” scene, so that when she gets here, we can hit the ground running with our importing/textile research.

My Spanish has improved, for sure. As for the business side of things, well, that’s another story in itself.

I discovered GuateLiving.com and like many others, was intrigued by the man behind the blog, Mark Francis. I figured I’d ask for a bit of advice from an “expert.” And that explains Monday’s blog post.

Mark had mentioned he had rooms available in one of his houses. He rented the rooms to visitors to offset the cost of his office in the house. It was cheap and clean, and I was ready to leave my homestay and take a nice hot shower.

An American couple and a British girl were also staying in the house. From bits of conversation I picked up, Mark’s life was unraveling. People in town thought he was having an affair with the British girl. One night he slept in the house, on the couch, even though he owned another house with his wife and kids.

I found the situation strange, but that was nothing compared to what happened next.

Wednesday morning, I hiked up an active volcano (a treat for finishing those grueling Spanish classes). When I returned, I learned that Mark had been arrested the night before. By the Feds. The U.S. Feds. Turns out, he’s been the most wanted man in Tennessee since 2008, for mail and securities fraud.

“Mark” is actually Jeffrey Lynn Cassman, an ex-politician, Ponzi-schemer, and man on the run. He’s probably been taken back to the States by now. It turns out he wasn’t from Arizona, he had 10 kids instead of three, and rarely told the truth.

Antigua is a-flutter with the news. The expat scene is small, and such a big-time arrest is gossip galore.

I decided to leave before the police came to search the house (that Mark didn’t even own). I packed my bags, and took off to Lake Atitlan, a tranquil place worlds away from securities fraud and the FBI.

I could finish by saying that I learned a lesson from this, about trust and gullibility, but instead I’ll just say this:

I am twenty-four. I am an idealist. I believe in karma.

Good things come to good people, and for now, I’ll leave you with this: the scene from my doorstep here at the lake.

Learning from the Experts: Annie O. Boutique

{Everyone tells us we can’t do this alone. And they’re right. This week, we’re soliciting advice from those who know best — as a follow-up of our talk with Mark from GuateLiving, today we’re sharing an interview with socially-responsible fashion entrepreneur Annie O. Waterman of annie O. boutique.}

One morning, I was casually browsing the EcoFashion website, and came across a story highlighting an up-and-coming fashion startup called, annie O. boutique. Annie Waterman imports handcrafted products from Peru, and her mission, story and products are beautiful. After a half-second on her site, I realized I had to get in touch, and one e-mail later, she agreed to help us out with some much-needed advice. Here’s the transcript from our interview.

K: For those who don’t know about Annie O, tell us about your company!

A: I am a designer who collaborates with women who are victims of domestic violence, creating a line of unique belts, clutches, shawls, and other one-of- a-kind wearable pieces.

“annie O. boutique” is an ethical fashion company that works directly with remote artisan communities to design and craft timeless accessories inspired by the local traditional artisan techniques.

K: I’m sure you get this all the time, but how did you get into the hand-made fashion business in Peru? What was the catalyst for just “doing it”?

A: I love travel, textiles, foreign cultures, and ethical business. Previously, I worked within the field of design and after some time, felt that I needed to try something of my own. I booked a ticket down to South America and researched cooperatives throughout Peru and Bolivia and was inspired by one of the women-run cooperatives that I met at the end of my journey. I started out by placing small orders and testing the market, and sure enough, the response was high, leading me to where I am today. I was always afraid to take the leap, but realized that there is no perfect time.

K: How long did it take to move your business from idea to execution?

A: I said I had a “side project” for about a year. After that, I was confident in saying I had a business.

K: Where can people find your stuff (besides of course the Annie O site!)? And what’s your method for distribution — primarily retail, or are you wholesaling to boutiques as well?

A: You can find my collection on sites such as ETSY, Econscious Market, Eco Fashion World, World of Green, and Nimli. I primarily sell wholesale.

K: What’s been the hardest part about importing products from Peru to the States? What would you change if you could do it all over again?

A: I would say the hardest part about importing is the high expense and teaching the cooperative the correct way to document all goods that are being imported. If the smallest of details are not included, the goods can be held in customs or sent back to Peru. It took some practice, but now the communication is clear and fluid.

If I were to do it all again, I would probably balance out my business, collaborating with the right business partner. Doing this solo has been a learning process, seeing as I am always trying to balance my weaknesses.

K: We love advice. Do you have any recommendations/warnings/suggestions for success in fashion, imports, or Central & South American travel?

A: Make sure that you choose your market wisely. Wholesale is a tough industry so I would focus on retail sales as much as possible. Price your goods wisely from the beginning. Know your market!

K: What are the next steps for Annie O — plans for the future?

A: I am heading to South America in December, so I look forward to expanding my Peruvian line and creating a new one in Colombia, (depending on how the connections pan out). My vision is to create different collections throughout South America, seeing as how the colors and textures compliment one another really well. My vision is to strongly impact these communities and create hope in these women’s lives.

K: Thank you, Annie, for your willingness to share your journey. We wish you all the best!

Below are some shots from annie O. — clutches, scarves, belts, jewelry — plus some inspiration! If you’re interested in Annie’s story, too, you can follow her on Twitter here. {r}

Learning from the Experts: Mark from GuateLiving

{Everyone tells us we can’t do this alone. And they’re right. This week, we’re soliciting advice from those who know best — and we’re starting with blogger and expat extraordinaire Mark Francis of GuateLiving.}

Mark from GuateLiving is an American expat living in Antigua with his family. Last week, we met over coffee and talked about business opportunities in Guatemala. Eventually, the conversation turned towards fair trade and “do-gooders” who come from the West to Guatemala, looking to make a difference (for themselves, and for others). It’s a heavy topic: fair trade, business, and Western standards. But Mark was kind enough to wade through muddy waters with me, and help me understand the consequences of the “white man’s standards” in doing business in a developing country.

Let me start by saying this:

I am 24. I am idealistic. I think that the world should be fair.

Thus, I believe in fair trade.

The only problem is that I don’t exactly know what “fair” is. We can all agree that humane conditions are a basic human right. But what about a “fair wage”? Who determines that? How do people agree on the price of labor across borders, cultures, and currencies?

This is where the water gets murky.

What is fair to me may not seem fair to you — especially if we live in different countries. If I were making a few dollars a day and sleeping in a shack with clean water and one lightbulb, I wouldn’t consider those few dollars a very fair wage. But in most third world countries, light bulbs and clean water are luxuries.

In the USA, we consider minimum wage to be fair. Pay less than that, and you’re unethical. Yet, a family of four living on minimum wage is considered impoverished. We make a lot of noise about unethical working conditions in other countries, but is our own minimum wage even fair?

Mark argues that the price people are willing to work for is the fair wage — the “market price.” Everything has a a market price, so if people agree to work for that price, it means they consider it to be fair.

In most cases, I agree with this, but there’s an element unaccounted for in this scenario: desperation.

Desperation is real. Pretend you had two choices:

Twelve hours of backbreaking work for $2 USD, to buy food for your family.
No work, $0 USD, no food.

This is a scenario so removed from our reality that it’s almost impossible to comprehend. But it’s a decision that millions of people make every day. I never want to be an employer that takes advantage of this basic need to survive. For me, that’s just not fair.

Mark seemed to think that we would have no trouble finding suppliers that jive with our overall ethics. It’ll take some research, and time, but I left our coffee-chat hopeful about the future of our business — ethics and all.

Mark had some interesting, and controversial, advice for Shannon and I as we get into the buying process in a foreign country:

Figure out why you want fair trade. To market your product? To help others, and ease your conscious? If your only goal is to help others, then consider using all these resources to start a charity instead. If your goal is to create jobs, focus on making your business sustainable.

Decide what fair means to you and your employees. In most cases, Guatemalans would be thrilled to receive the legal minimum wage for unskilled labor. Paying more does two things: it hurts the chances of your business succeeding (and thus continuing to provide jobs), and it creates unsustainable dependency. Be a good employer. Pay people on time. Give them vacation. Show interest in their well-being.

Paying people a price that both employer and employee agree upon is best. Throwing money at people in the name of fair trade helps no one. Actually, it can hurt. If you create a dependency on a wage that is not market price, and your business folds, what will your employees do? Now they have no work, and no way to pay for more expensive things they may have leased or bought on credit. And there won’t be any other jobs available that pay as much.

Be charitable, but truly think about the ways in which you want to be charitable. Operate your business as a business, and after you’ve created something sustainable, choose how you want to give back. You want to build wells or invest in local businesses? That’s up to you. But save acts of charity for later — first focus on creating jobs. This is what will make an economy strong; not welfare.

Forget your “gringo guilt.” Stop thinking that everyone wants to be like the Western world, because they don’t. No one way of life is better than any other, and thinking that you need to “pull the world up” in terms of material things helps no one.

Remember that everything is relative.

Most importantly, do your best to make a change that will last.

The topics of fair trade, business, and ethics are touchy. Shannon and I will constantly be thinking about what fair trade means to us, and also how we can best serve others and fulfill our own need to create positive change.

I loved talking with Mark, and learning about fair trade in a completely different light, and we would love for this conversation to continue. Ultimately, we all want what is best for ourselves and the world. What do you think is the best way for businesses to serve the greater good? {r}

“Hola” from Guatemala!

{If you’re new to the site, welcome. This is the home of Kristin & Shannon, two girls in the process of starting a fair-trade business, importing apparel from Central America to North America. Learn more about our mission here.}

This week, I left for Guatemala, while Shannon took a mini-vacation to London for her 25th birthday. It’s been a busy week! I’m navigating a new country and learning a new language, while Shannon is doing some research on fair trade fashion while in the UK (fair trade products are far more popular there than in the States).

I’d been reading up a little on manufacturing and textiles before I arrived here, but the first, and most important hurdle, is simply learning the language. Turns out, it’s not so simple.

Spanish isn’t completely new to me, but the more I learn, the more I realize how little I know.

I am in my third day of classes at La Union, a Spanish language school in Antigua, Guatemala. For 145 dollars per week, I receive 20 hours of one-on-one tutoring, as well as room and board with a family.

My teacher, Rosa, doesn’t speak English, and neither does my host family. The only time I speak English is when I can sneak in a few words with Jim, a student from Australia who also lives with my host family.

It’s lonely. And trying. But it’s also an incredible feeling; I am surrounded by people who don’t know me at all, but want to help me succeed.

For now, here are some photos from my first few days in Guatemala. I’ll be posting more about my teacher, host family, and Antigua later this week! {r}

Scenes of Antigua, an old colonial city surrounded by volcanoes.

Candle-making and textile weaving are two big traditions here. I was lucky enough to see hundreds of candles and a few candlemakers at an old convent on my first day in Antigua.

Textiles from the Nim Pot Market.

Trinkets, figurines, and earrings at the Nim Pot Market in Antigua.

“Flores” in Antigua.

My new hangout: Cafe Y Tu Pina Tambien, near La Escuela Union.

Video: How to Cope with Change {Part II}

How does one “deal” with change? What do we do to make ourselves overcome the mental obstacles regarding big changes in our lives?

Kristin talks about her coping methods, and shares some photos from the last time she made a big change — and almost backed out.

What do you do to soothe your mind and power through “scary” times? {r}

Video: How to Cope with Change {Part 1}

Change is a funny thing. You make a decision to do something big–and then, right before the change is supposed to happen, you get the notion to back out. Turn around, walk away, and go back to your comfort zone.

Kristin talks about leaving for Guatemala in a few days–and her resulting anxiety. {r}

(Note: Shannon will be joining her in late October)

HOW DID WE GET HERE?

{the blog}

Tagged: travel